High in the mountains of the Sangre de Christo range in New
Mexico, just south of Taos is a place the locals call Llano Quemado, (yawnoh kemawdo).
The Burnt Plain.
The legend for the name was that it had been a piñon
forest where early Conquistadores had encamped, and a huge forest fire burned
so hotly that nothing grew there for many years afterwards. The conquistadores split into several
communities in the area. Abandoned
Catholic chapels dot the landscape and their walls are often the only
indication that there were ever any villages there.
Today it is a featureless sagebrush prairie with several hot
springs bubbling out from the foothills.
At the Northern end of the plain along the foothills, is an abandoned
swimming pool that I remember was an operating pool when I was a child of eight
or so. The pool was called Talpia Hot
Springs. However, the pool couldn’t meet
the chlorinating requirements of the State because of the continually flowing
water, so the owners simply closed it and let it go to ruin. That area now also sports the upscale
community of Llano Quemado and “Ponce de Leon Hot Springs”. Pardon me while I retch.
I and a few other hippies had moved in there after some
heated arguments in the surrounding hippie communes. We had very few rules in the communes, but thievery
was rampant, and some of us fled the formal communes and settled there in the
abandoned buildings to escape the avarice.
We had no locks on the doors, and people came and went at will. Thievery didn’t happen because we had nothing
to steal.
Winter had settled in with ferocity that year, and our
meager wood supplies where quickly exhausted.
Many of the hippie residents went searching for warmer quarters, but a
few of us remained. It was at that time
that I met Ben. Ben wasn’t his real
name, but I swore I would not reveal it, and even though he has certainly passed
away by now, I will still honor that oath.
A Brujo rarely gave out his real name.
In thinking back, I believe that I was the only one at the commune/crash
pad that did know Ben’s real name.
I was huddles by the little adobe fireplace in the corner of
one room we called the bunkroom. The others
were clustered together for warmth and sex under piles of blankets and sleeping
bags in a huge bunkbed we had built off the floor along one wall. Group sex was
not my forte’ and I would excuse myself after a few obligatory kisses and caresses.
Ben arrived some time after midnight when the happily trammeled group had happily
collapsed in post coital bliss.
He was bearing a bundle of piñon wood and peyote, which was
not all that unusual for him. Wordlessly, he sat beside me in front of the
fire, and frugally fed the piñon sticks into the fire as he brewed
up peyote tea in a small clay bowl. When
the tea was ready, he carefully cut up one more peyote button into the tea, and
the pieces floated on the top of the brew.
Then he softly chanted
as I watched, mesmerized, as the little pieces of peyote in the bowl followed
his instructions to move away from him, then flow toward him. Then he took a sip, and passed the steaming
bowl to me. I took a small sip, and my
stomach lurched violently with the bitter brew.
Ben commanded, “Another!”
as he pantomimed drinking from the bowl
Again, I raised the bowl to my lips, watched the steaming
bits on the surface retreat from my lips, and took a bigger sip. Again, the flash of nausea, and the fighting
back of the bile.
“Good!” he said. “I knew you would be awake. I tell only you. This is not your home. I will come again and show you home. But tonight I show you your guide.”
I didn’t think much about that comment. I was still busy trying to keep the bitter
brew in my stomach. Finally, I fled out
the front door into the hard winter night, and retched the tea up, then
returned to the fire to re-warm myself. A
warmth that didn’t come from the fire began to softly envelope me and I settled
back on my haunches and let peyote bathe me in its fire. I opened my blankets and let the firelight
flicker on my bare chest and watched the coyotes jump about in the dancing
flames.
“You see the coyotes!”
Ben exclaimed.
I replied, “yes?”
… why would that amaze him? They were
there for all too see, or so I thought, anyway.
“Mescalito likes
you. He dances for you.”
“Mescalito is a
coyote?” I asked.
“Sometimes. Sometimes he is dog. Sometimes he is wolf. Usually he is coyote, though. Mescalito fears humans. But he likes you. He dances for you. He will be your guide.”
The fire slowly began to change colors, dissolving from reds
to greens to yellows to blues to violets.
Each color had a new theme. I
watched plants go through complete lifecycles.
I saw gargoyle like creatures clumsily dance in strange cities. I saw men with shell like hair. I saw vast landscapes that heaved like
oceans. I saw beauty, I saw ugliness.
Then, with the winding blacks, violets and purples, a young
woman danced a very sensuous and inviting dance. She was wearing a long black satin dress, and
a deep purple lace mantilla graced her head and shoulders. Her long hair was a lusterous black glistened
with tiny violet and purple streaks. She
was breathtaking in her beauty.
“You must not dance
with her.” Ben warned. “She is
the bony lady. Santisima Muerte .
Oddly, I did meet her several times in the two years
afterwards. It was always when I was
drinking, and usually when the crowd was breaking up at the end of the party. She never talked, just beckoned to me to
follow. I don’t know why I didn’t follow
her. She was very strange. She beckoned to others as well, but they did
not seem to notice her, which was very odd as well. Most of the men I knew did not pass on a
beckoning beauty.
As the harsh gray fingers of dawn began peeking around the
edges of the pine door, Ben suddenly roses and left. I didn’t hear a car start. Later I discovered that his hogan was just a
couple of miles out in the sagebrush from the hot springs.
As I tell you this story, you may think my matter-of-fact
tone is odd. I guess it is, but most of
these “meetings” with the bony lady and other Mexican/Indian spirits were very
ordinary. No one seemed to notice the
silent young woman with long black hair wearing a long black dress and a deep
purple veil. No one noticed the laughing
coyote sitting on the bar. No one even
looked up at the kachina’s[1]
dancing the walls.
I walked with the spirits, and thought nothing of it. They seemed so ordinary to me. You might think that I was insane, and I do
not deny that I was frequently in an altered state, but if you search it out,
you will find that my experience was far from unique. Mystics have reported similar
results for ages.
In the weeks to follow, I will attempt to pull up more cohesive
tales to enlighten you. They do require
a certain amount of creative editing in the retelling, because I walked in two
worlds at the same time, and segued between the spirit world and the real world
continually, and it is hard to remain in one or the other while telling you
about that odd time in my life.
In the real world, all is order, things have a logical
beginning, a middle and an end. In the
spirit world, all is chaos, where beginnings take place at the same time as endings,
and the middles weaves itself among the two poles. Beauty is treacherous, and
rare kindness is found in repulsiveness.
I hope to be a bit more descriptive than my earlier
vignettes were. But if they seem to be a
bit fairy-tellish, remember that they were the real life perceptions of a mad
man. To quote Mark Twain; I told the
truth. Mostly.
~r
[1] Ancestral being of the Pueblo Indians. As each tribe has its own kachinas, there are more than 500
of these spirit-beings. They are believed to reside with a tribe for half of
each year and can be seen by the community if its men properly perform a ritual
while wearing kachina regalia. The being depicted through the regalia is
thought to be actually present with the performer, temporarily transforming
him. Kachinas are also represented by small wooden dolls that are carved and
decorated by the men of the tribe and used to teach children the identities of
each kachina and its associated symbolism.
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